RockShox® Pike® Suspension Fork Service



The fourth generation Corvette was a radical departure from General Motors early Corvette engineering. It eliminated a perimeter frame to support the suspension and driveline. Two front frame rails integrated into the first ever Corvette uni-body construction. This made for an interesting driveline mounting installation. The front suspension subframe was bolted to the frame rails while providing engine mounting points. First: How are some of you removing and eventually reinstalling the front and rear transverse springs in these C4's? We cover tools that make it easy to press out bushings, compress springs, separate ball joints, loosen shock tower bolts, and more. The axle clamp must be removed to fix it. Race Tech sells a tool for it, but this is a job for suspension pros.

I actually approached this job with some trepidation, having read about people having to pound out the four bolts that hold it in. I did everything here, except I left a floor jack centered on the crossmember while I removed the top nuts. A car's ability to remain level while turning, with traction spread between all four wheels, is dependent on the coil springs distributing weight.

The shock is attached at the bottom to the lower control arm. I begin by cutting the outer portion of the upper control arm bushing that protrudes past the arms bushing opening. Be careful because the spindle will only be attached at the bottom ball joint and it will try to flop down.

Before you remove this bolt and nut, place your jack stand underneath the lower control arm and crank it up until you see the spring begin to slowly compress. There are also "heavy-duty" shocks and struts with larger diameter pistons that increase resistance for greater control.

Sometimes this sounds a lot easier than it actually is. When they have separated, remove the ball joint nut and pull the control arm out of the spindle. You'll notice that the spring is attached to the lower control arm and a top bushing mount on the body. Even though this worked, the metal that had once surrounded the rubber bushing was still lodged in the control arm which prevented the shaft from being removed.

Unbolt the upper control arm at the cam bolts. I remove the tie rod end first to allow the spindle knuckle to easily move around during disassembly. The lower control arm and strut rod go in together. The press is used to push the rubber out with a sleeve placed on the lower part of the control arm to receive the bushing.

When you upgrade your suspension, don't use old bushings or ball joints. Once the bolt has been removed, and the jack lowered, the lower control arm will easily be lowered which will permit you to remove the spring. The spindle knuckle will drop down a bit, but will not be a problem with spindle control when the shock is removed from the stud.

Once the Suspension Disassembly vehicle is raised, and the wheel, brake caliper, brake caliper mount, brake rotor, and any other obstacles are removed, a safety chain is placed through the coil spring, and lower control arm, ensuring the spring can not take flight if stress is relieved suddenly.

With the spring unloaded at both ends, the spring can be removed from the differential housing. Before you can remove any coil spring from its mounting point on a vehicle or on a strut, it must be clamped down to a shorter height. You should not be able to move the spring once you've attached the lower control arm.

This method can be used on the upper control arms as well, or the metal piece can be banged out with a hammer. 45 minutes of up close and personal inspection with two sets of trained eyeballs and a pry bar showed all bushings (even the rear link bushings) to be fine, with the exception of the strut rod bushings.

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